Hi All,
In June'2013, I wen for a week holiday to Kashmir with my family. I wanted to share my experiences but got really busy but finally here I am
Reaching Kashmir
There is a Airport at Srinagar which is central place for Kashmir Valley and you have to be there. There is only one road route from Jammu and no Rail route. Jammu is connected with trains to all parts of India.
I tries to save money by taking one way flight and coming back vi road. It is very painful. It is more than 9-10 hrs and not much scenic so if you can afford, take flights only to reach Srinagar by booking in advance.
In Srinagar,
Srinagar can be covered mostly in 1 or max 2 days. Srinagar is a proper city and not like a hill station. The famous Dal lake is at one corner of Srinagar ( very close to Srinagar Bus stand though) and all the attractions of Srinagar are on circumference of Dal lake. So your house boat or hotel should ideally be there only and that too between Dal gates 1 to 25. ( These gates are small gate to enter boats all around Dal lake about 50 metres away from each other max)
So Stay on Dal lake. The hotels in peak season of June were available at as low as Rs 1000 ( basic room of course but with TV, Attached Bathroom etc ) ..Even house boats are available starting Rs 1500/day..Yes because there are over 100 of them in Dal lake only
As you move from Dal gate number 1 to the entire circumference ( about 20 KM;s), you would hit Shankaracharya, Nishat bagh, Shalimar Bhagh, Hazratbal, TAJ Srinagar and all other places of any interest in Srinagar.
There is bargaining like Palika Bazar in Kashmir, 50% is minimum even on Shikara rides
Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam are all day trips from Srinagar as the distance range from 70 to 90 KM. As after Srinagar, you are in huge Kashmir Valley, the drive is not a typical mountain drive, Very large portions are like plane straight highways. But your average speed would not me more than 40 because taxi/Bus drivers would not drive > 60 . Why..No reason and they would take one break even if you do not wish to take. This break is mostly at a shopping point so that you buy something.
Also, even if you take your car from Srinagar to any of these places, you need to hire local car there, simply nexus. You end up paying 500 rs for 2 KM sometimes so be ready for that.
Even you wish, you can't stay at Sonamarg or Gulmarg so only option is Pahalagam which is slightly bigger place.
Now even in June
Gulmarg has got maximum snow and you should take Gandola ride to phase 2. Becasue there is nothing at phase 1. Surely scenic beauty and a large park
From Car park, there is about 1.5 KM walk to Gondola station ( trolly ) and horses are available. They would ask you Rs 500 but would go in 100 but ideally you should walk as that is a very good walk.
Pahalgam has got mountains, rivers and planes but mostly no snow. They would take you to 6-7 places but finally you would realise it is all same ( river, mountain etc). From bus/ CAR stand, you can take horses to roan around close by or take Sumo to take you to few places in Pahalgam. Here , there was no negotiation and prices were fixed.
For me, Sonamarg is not to be missed. You get snow, mountains, river and planes all at one place there. Once again, bargaining on horses, Sumo runs at 50% easily at this place. The bus/ CAR stand is point A. There is nothing there. You need to take Sumo to reach Point B, about 1.5-2 Km and he would ask rs 2500 to begin with but would go in Rs 1000. The think in their favour is they would wait for you as it is to-fro deal. Now even at point 2 , there is nothing. From point 2 to point 3, there is a KM walk or horse, very rocky with a river flowing by your side...very amazing. Point 3 is very beautiful. Point 3 to 4 you have to walk, about 750 M and you hit snow
Finally, you would feel that Kashmiris hate you especially Indians. You can feel that hatred in their body language, talk and behavior. When electricity goes, typical response would be " Our electricity is taken by India for Delhi". they really do not know Transformer malfunctioning is also possible
Note:
All this was in month of June. As I always say as a marketeer in India, consumer behaviur changes in India every 100 KM and in every season. The finer details may be completely different if you go in October or March. of course, no one goes from November to february as valley is under snow :)
Enjoy..it is surely worth a visit in life. As Shehenshas Jahagair said
"Agar Firdaws ba roy-i zamin ast, hamin ast-u hamin ast-u hamin ast,” meaning, “If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this."
In June'2013, I wen for a week holiday to Kashmir with my family. I wanted to share my experiences but got really busy but finally here I am
Reaching Kashmir
There is a Airport at Srinagar which is central place for Kashmir Valley and you have to be there. There is only one road route from Jammu and no Rail route. Jammu is connected with trains to all parts of India.
I tries to save money by taking one way flight and coming back vi road. It is very painful. It is more than 9-10 hrs and not much scenic so if you can afford, take flights only to reach Srinagar by booking in advance.
In Srinagar,
Srinagar can be covered mostly in 1 or max 2 days. Srinagar is a proper city and not like a hill station. The famous Dal lake is at one corner of Srinagar ( very close to Srinagar Bus stand though) and all the attractions of Srinagar are on circumference of Dal lake. So your house boat or hotel should ideally be there only and that too between Dal gates 1 to 25. ( These gates are small gate to enter boats all around Dal lake about 50 metres away from each other max)
So Stay on Dal lake. The hotels in peak season of June were available at as low as Rs 1000 ( basic room of course but with TV, Attached Bathroom etc ) ..Even house boats are available starting Rs 1500/day..Yes because there are over 100 of them in Dal lake only
As you move from Dal gate number 1 to the entire circumference ( about 20 KM;s), you would hit Shankaracharya, Nishat bagh, Shalimar Bhagh, Hazratbal, TAJ Srinagar and all other places of any interest in Srinagar.
There is bargaining like Palika Bazar in Kashmir, 50% is minimum even on Shikara rides
Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam are all day trips from Srinagar as the distance range from 70 to 90 KM. As after Srinagar, you are in huge Kashmir Valley, the drive is not a typical mountain drive, Very large portions are like plane straight highways. But your average speed would not me more than 40 because taxi/Bus drivers would not drive > 60 . Why..No reason and they would take one break even if you do not wish to take. This break is mostly at a shopping point so that you buy something.
Also, even if you take your car from Srinagar to any of these places, you need to hire local car there, simply nexus. You end up paying 500 rs for 2 KM sometimes so be ready for that.
Even you wish, you can't stay at Sonamarg or Gulmarg so only option is Pahalagam which is slightly bigger place.
Now even in June
Gulmarg has got maximum snow and you should take Gandola ride to phase 2. Becasue there is nothing at phase 1. Surely scenic beauty and a large park
From Car park, there is about 1.5 KM walk to Gondola station ( trolly ) and horses are available. They would ask you Rs 500 but would go in 100 but ideally you should walk as that is a very good walk.
Pahalgam has got mountains, rivers and planes but mostly no snow. They would take you to 6-7 places but finally you would realise it is all same ( river, mountain etc). From bus/ CAR stand, you can take horses to roan around close by or take Sumo to take you to few places in Pahalgam. Here , there was no negotiation and prices were fixed.
For me, Sonamarg is not to be missed. You get snow, mountains, river and planes all at one place there. Once again, bargaining on horses, Sumo runs at 50% easily at this place. The bus/ CAR stand is point A. There is nothing there. You need to take Sumo to reach Point B, about 1.5-2 Km and he would ask rs 2500 to begin with but would go in Rs 1000. The think in their favour is they would wait for you as it is to-fro deal. Now even at point 2 , there is nothing. From point 2 to point 3, there is a KM walk or horse, very rocky with a river flowing by your side...very amazing. Point 3 is very beautiful. Point 3 to 4 you have to walk, about 750 M and you hit snow
Finally, you would feel that Kashmiris hate you especially Indians. You can feel that hatred in their body language, talk and behavior. When electricity goes, typical response would be " Our electricity is taken by India for Delhi". they really do not know Transformer malfunctioning is also possible
Note:
All this was in month of June. As I always say as a marketeer in India, consumer behaviur changes in India every 100 KM and in every season. The finer details may be completely different if you go in October or March. of course, no one goes from November to february as valley is under snow :)
Enjoy..it is surely worth a visit in life. As Shehenshas Jahagair said
"Agar Firdaws ba roy-i zamin ast, hamin ast-u hamin ast-u hamin ast,” meaning, “If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this."
Good read...i plan to go there someday so thanks for the heads up
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